From the sea wall at the mouth of the bay, I watched as a team of rowers, lined up in a trainera (a streamlined sporting boat once used to hunt fish and whales), powered out of the port into the glistening Cantabrian Sea, past criss-crossing jet skis and a yacht sailing lazily back into harbour. Families splashed around in natural tidal pools, cooling off from the midday heat. But while the ocean remains a source of pleasure and income for locals, it's now serving a new purpose: as an immense source of power.

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