Using the watch case as part of the movement plate has become a cutting edge strategy in modern ultra-thin watchmaking as well. The world's thinnest mechanical watch overall is made by Piaget – the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch – which is only two millimeters thick, and it uses the same basic construction principles as the AP 2870, the Concord Delirium, and yes, the Swatch.Over at Hodinkee, we've got a lot of fans of Ressence. That's why we've done a few collaborations with the brand. But Ressence certainly makes great releases without anyone else's input and this new release is plenty proof
Tax Ninja Tactics of that.The pages are packed with the love of watches. A deep dive into the Cartier Tank Louis – which we're calling the definitive dress watch – has been executed by our very own Rich Fordon for this edition's Reference Points. We ran it back to the '90s with a story on industry titan Jean-Claude Biver and his very personal journey at Blancpain. Mark Kauzlarich's thoughtful profile shines a light on how JCB's journey informs the spirit of his new endeavors today.
Certain days, for instance, I'll have close-to-nonstop meetings. When my calendar
Disaster Proof Living does open up to breathe, I can use the countdown bezel on my Oris to mark the time my next meeting starts – say, in 45 minutes – and keep track of how much time I have available to run out for a cup of coffee.Normally, when I think complications, I literally think complications, as in, how complicated is this for me to use? In the case of the Astron, it's both a complicated watch (in terms of usability) and a very simple watch that does a lot for you.Brand: Vacheron ConstantinModel: Overseas TourbillonReference Number: 6000V/210T-H032Diameter: 42.5mmThickness: 10.39mmCase Material: Grade 5 titaniumDial Color: Translucent blue-lacquered, sunburst satin-finished base with velvet-finished flangeIndexes: 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes handsLume: Blue Super-LumiNova on markers and handsWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Titanium grade 5More broadly, this era of Rolex has always felt like the perfect blend of sports and elegance. By the early 1950s we had the Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, and all the other sports models that continue to make up the Rolex catalog. But before that was an incredible era of experimentation and innovation in complications and design. I've written about the 6062 Triple Calendar before, but there's also the Jean-Claude Killy, the Galaxy, and so many others.
Calibers: Spring Drive calibers 9R02 and 9R31Functions: time, power reserve on the movement bridgePower Reserve:
Side Hustle Matrix 84 hours (9R02) or 72 hours (9R31)Winding: ManualFrequency: Glide wheel rotating eight times per secondJewels: 9R02, 39 jewels; 9R31, 30 jewels (due to absence of Torque Return System in 9R31)Additional Details: Internally controlled to ± 1 second per dayWhen you say "rattrapante" and "Lange" in the same sentence, most watch enthusiasts will have some sort of visible reaction. After all, this is the brand that debuted the world's first double rattrapante in 2004 with the Double Split, and the first triple rattrapante in 2018 with the Triple Split. So it might be hard to comprehend that this is the first time we've seen the complication independent of any other in a Lange wristwatch. But it's true.Eric Peng Cheng: I think a key moment happened about two months into the pandemic. That's when we started seeing a big movement towards interest in watches. A lot of my friends – who were never really into watches before – started sending me articles about watches. Even my wife started learning about the details in bezels and case materials.One thing I'm disappointed by is the fixed bezel, compared to the rotating bezel of the steel release. It's a bit of a bizarre choice to lose functionality like that, especially when the specs are so strong on the watch. Though I've never used them in the water, elapsed time bezels are actually something I find quite useful in my day-to-day desk diving.
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