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In the west of Scotland, above the crystal-clear waters of Loch Awe, is Ben Cruachan, the soaring remnant of some distant geological upheaval. The pine-skirted mountain is the highest point of a horseshoe of scalloped granite, spewed boulders and scree faces, and helps cradle Cruachan Dam, a mighty reservoir that offers a glorious panorama of the maze-like lochs and hills that make up mainland Argyll.

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