Starters are made by leaving an inviting slurry of flour and water out on a counter and waiting until microbes colonise it, turning it bubbly and sour. But most bakers don’t have DNA sequencers on hand to see exactly what is living in their starters, which often look, smell, and taste different. To boot, just where the microbes come from? The air? The flour? The baker’s own microbiome?

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