Fast forward to today and my train – a little three-carriage trundler with a cheery ticket inspector – is travelling through the same, hard-gained underpass. The Blea Moor Tunnel forms a key part of the 73-mile Settle-Carlisle Railway Line, which opened for passenger services in May 1876. The line is one of the most extraordinary stretches of rail track in the UK, partly due to the bleakly beautiful countryside it passes through, partly due to near closures in the 1960s and 1980s and partly due to the fact that it was ever built at all.
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