I got my first taste of why Turku – the oldest city in Finland – has become a new Nordic food hotspot as I sampled my way through its 19th-Century Market Hall. The handsome red-brick building is set a block back from the River Aura, which flows through town and out into the Turku Archipelago – the world's largest archipelago, where around 40,000 islands stretch across the Gulf of Bothnia towards Sweden.

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