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For cookbook author Saira Hamilton, a childhood visit to see her grandmother was never as simple as jumping in a car. Born to first-generation immigrants in the UK, she began each summer with a flight from Wales to Dhaka. The remainder of her complex journey to Dampara, a village nestled in the verdant paddy field-dotted Kishoreganj district in central Bangladesh, was a watery blur – involving travel by train, bus, rickshaw and flat-bottomed boat.

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